Bon Appetit
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BURGUNDY
Domaine FaiveleyLatricieres Chambertin Grand Cru 2007 WS94 BH92 $898
AM Tasting Note: A more refined and more elegant but very cool, even restrained nose of red pinot, blue berry
and intense floral notes, particularly violets, introduces rich, pure and sleekly muscled full-bodied flavors built
on a base of borderline strict minerality while culminating in an impeccably balanced, serious and gorgeously
long finish. I really like the sense of underlying tension and if this can add more depth in time, my rating
could be considered conservative.
Vincent Girardin Pommard 1erCru Les Grands Epenots 2007 BH92 $398
AM Tasting Note: A moderately reduced, earthy and not surprisingly somber nose of dark berry fruit and underbrush notes leads
to rich, full and serious medium weight plus flavors that possess good volume and vibrancy, all wrapped in a
distinctly rustic and very Pommard finish that possesses good depth. Be sure to decant this first.
Nicolas Potel Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Au Desus Des Malconsorts 2007 BH91 ST91 $780
AM Tasting Note: A hint of spice adds nuance to the high-toned, cool and refreshing notes of currant, raspberry and cranberry that merge into equally fresh,
racy and minerally middle weight flavors that possess an attractive sense of vibrancy if more limited complexity than the best of the
Vosne 1ers as well as a subtle touch of backend warmth.
Domainique Laurent Clos deVougeot Vieilles Vignes "Sui Generis" 2010 BH95 $1080
Domaine Faiveley Mercurey 2007 WE89 BH89 $165
RHONE
Domaine de La Mordoree CDP Cuvee de La Reine Des Bois 2009 RP 96 $455
The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de la Reine des Bois is brilliant. A blend of 80% Grenache and the rest Mourvedre,
Syrah and other approved varietals, it was aged in stainless steel (two-thirds) and smaller older barrels (one-third). Its inky
purple color is followed by a gorgeous nose of blackberry and blueberry liqueur, lead pencil shavings, and a hint of
raspberries. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated with abundant floral notes, stunning flavor depth, brilliant purity and
sweet tannin, it will benefit from 3-4 years of bottle age (atypical for a 2009), and should drink well for 25+ years.
Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe CDP 2010 RP97 $698
Performing considerably better than it did prior to bottling, the 2010 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape is one of the all-time great
Vieux Telegraphes I have tasted in the last 3+ decades. I believe it is even superior to the 2007, which I had several weeks ago. The 2010
boasts a dense purple color along with a sumptuous bouquet of spring flowers, boysenberries, black cherries, black currants, nori (the
sushi seaweed wrapper), black olives, licorice and pepper. This full-bodied, meaty, thick, juicy effort possesses a boatload of tannin,
but it also has incredible concentration. More massive than I remember from last year, it has put on considerable weight and intensity.
Forget it for 3-4 years, and drink it over the following 25-30 years. Kudos to Daniel and Frederic Brunier!
Domaine La Colliere Rasteau La Fontaine 2010 RP95 $288
The brilliant 2010 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Rasteau La Fontaine is aged in a combination of tank and 600-liter
demi-muids. Off the charts concentration and a bigger than life personality characterize this inky/purple-colored
Rasteau. Notes of truffles, camphor, chocolate, kirsch, blackberries, roasted meats and bouquet garni emerge f
rom this full-bodied, multidimensional effort. It is one of the finest Rasteaus I tasted on my tour through the
southern Rhone Valley. Drink it over the next 15+ years.
Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra 2007 RP98 $780
The 2007 Barolo Ciabot Mentin is one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted at this address. Deep, sensual
layers of fruit flow from the glass as this full-throttle, intense Barolo reveals its profound, breathtaking
personality. The 2007 shows tons of Ginestra nuance, but with extra dimensions to the fruit that literally covers
every nook and cranny of the palate. Tasting this next to the 2006 is quite a comparison, as both wines are
fabulous. Readers who can should be sure to own bottles of both. A side-by-side comparison is sure to be
fascinating as the wines develop over the coming years. Astute readers will note the slight name change
here, which is the result of new regulations that require the use of the historic vineyard name, in this case
Ginestra, or a proprietary name. Call me nostalgic, but it is sad to see one of the iconic labels in Barolo '
disappear. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027.
ITALY
Clerico Barolo Pajana 2007 RP 96 $760
The 2007 Barolo Pajana is a showstopper. Waves of intense, beautifully delineated fruit flow onto the
palate as the wine opens up in the glass. Sumptuous and elegant through and through, the Pajana shows
marvelous delineation and clean, minerally notes that underpin the opulence of the fruit. This is a marvelous,
totally complete Pajana of the highest level. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032.
Clerico Dolcetto Langhe Visadi 2010 RP90 $175
The 2010 Langhe Dolcetto Visadi is a big, powerful wine bursting with dark varietal fruit, smoke and
tar, all supported by clean mineral notes that give the wine energy and length. I especially like the voluptuous
finish. This is a fabulous entry-level red from one of Barolo’s icons. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014.
Fattoria Le Pupille Saffredi 2007 RP95 $630
The 2007 Saffredi is drop-dead gorgeous. Roasted coffee beans, grilled herbs, mocha and dark fruit
emerge from this beautiful, textured wine. The richness of the fruit radiates through to the long, polished
finish. The 2007 Saffredi impresses for its fabulous balance and soft, enveloping personality. It is another
superb effort from proprietor Elisabetta Geppetti. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2027.
Fattoria Le Pupille Morellino di Scansano 2010 RP90 $165
The 2010 Morellino di Scansano shows great up-front intensity in its fruit. A blast of dark
red berries, flowers, mint and spices comes together in the glass. This is a bold style of Morellino
with quite a bit of underlying tannic heft. The 2010 needs to be enjoyed with food as it is far from
an easygoing Morellino. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019.
AUSTRIA
FX Pichler Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg 2007 RP98 $498
The Pichler 2007 Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg makes a statement so mineral it is the bottling
that ought to be named capital “M”. Salt, white pepper, iodine, and crushed stone mingle with
lime and white peach on a palate display of fine-grained density and broth-like, reduced concentration,
yet compared with the Steinertal one of restraint. A vibrant, almost electric thread of acidity runs
through this, in part a legacy of desiccated fruit at the end of November (which in turn meant very
low yield), and as with the Loibenberg, this virtually lights up in the finish, with almost visceral
penetration and a kaleidoscopic display of white pepper, salt, stone, citrus, and pit fruits.
(It reached 14% alcohol, but I would have guessed 13%.)
AUSTRALIA
Kay Brothers Amery Shiraz 2007 $260
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